Every formulation reviewed in Derm Audit Journal undergoes a standardized five-step documentary audit before publication. We do not rely on unverified marketing adjectives or anonymous user scores; instead, we evaluate each formula against published cosmetic chemistry literature and disclosed manufacturer specifications.
Pillar 1: Active Ingredient & INCI Verification
We audit the complete International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) list disclosed by the manufacturer. We identify the primary signaling peptides (such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, SYN-AKE®, Eyeseryl®, Regu®-Age, and Pro-Coll-One+), beta-glucans (Symglucan®), and tyrosinase inhibitors (Alpha-Arbutin, Niacinamide), noting their position in the formula and any disclosed percentage concentrations.
Pillar 2: Literature vs. Manufacturer Claim Attribution
In cosmetic science, raw-material peptide suppliers conduct in-vitro and small-panel assays that brands frequently cite on their packaging. Our editorial standard requires explicit attribution:
- Peer-Reviewed Compound Studies: Cited with direct PubMed identifiers (PMIDs) and DOIs when discussing biochemical mechanisms (such as SNARE complex modulation or tyrosinase inhibition).
- Manufacturer-Reported Figures: Numerical claims from supplier data sheets or brand testing (e.g., "+354% collagen synthesis", "82% contraction reduction", "1,190% Type I collagen increase") are always labeled as manufacturer-reported data, never as absolute medical guarantees.
Pillar 3: pH & Layering Conflict Modeling
Even well-formulated peptides fail when layered directly over low-pH acids or strong oxidizers that cleave peptide bonds. We cross-check every reviewed product against our 42-Rule Skincare Conflict Matrix to provide clear AM/PM separation guidance.
Pillar 4: Excipient & Barrier Compatibility
We examine the delivery base (emollients, humectants, silicones, and preservatives) to assess whether a formula is suited for delicate periorbital skin, post-acne texture, or dry mature barriers, and we flag potential irritants or restock constraints transparently.
Pillar 5: Pricing & Return Policy Audit
Because topical skin remodeling requires 4 to 12 weeks of consistent use, we verify each merchant's refund window (60-day, 67-day, or 90-day money-back guarantees), return shipping responsibility, and unit pricing against prestige department-store alternatives on our 2026 Comparison Matrix.